AS-1014 Rear End Mounting Kit for 1948-1953 Chevy and GMC 1/2 Tn Pickup Truck. Front & rear spring mounts for 1948-54 Chevy & GMC Pick-up. Designed to mount Chassis Engineering 2-1/2″ slider springs
Installation Instructions for AS-1014 Leaf Spring Rear End Mounting Kit for 1948-1953 Chevy and GMC Pickup Truck
This kit works with a variety of different rear-end choices.
Works best with SB-4854RA Sway Bar.
1. Remove 4 original rear spring mounts by drilling out the rivets. Be care ful as some of the holes are reused. Also remove the original shock absorbers.
2. Front spring mounting:
Make sure the bottom frame lip is 90 degrees to the frame where the front mount bolts on to. Straighten it if needed. The original mount used 2 rivets through the bottom frame lip, the rear most hole now matches the front hole in the new mount.
Using this matching hole bolt the new mount lightly in place. Clamp and drill second mounting hole in the bottom of the frame. Tighten both bolts. This leaves one hole to drill through the upright brace inside the frame. Drill the last hole onlu after the mount is otherwise bolted in place. Drill to 11/32″ There may be a space between the upright brace and the inner frame. Use spacers to fill the gap. Bolt it upright to the frame. Caution: do not use a bolt to pull it to the frame, use the spacers.
3. Rear spring mounting: The new rear spring mount uses the same holes as the old mount. Locate and bolt new mounts to the frame.
4. Install spring and shackles (the front of the spring is heavier and has 2 clamps)
5. Set the rear end over the springs. (Rear end should have old pads removed). Set new spring pads in place and install lower shock plate and U-bolts. Center the rear-end and tighten lightly.
6. To determine spring spacing, measure right to left across the front of both sprinngs, then the same at the back. Average these 2 numbers and that is the width of the spring pads. Be sure the outer spring distances to hub is the same on both sides. We recommend putting weight on the springs before setting pinion angle. Set angle for 1 or 2 degrees less than the transmission angle.
If you want to guess at the pinion angle, the rear-end can be set up a 4 degrees upward pinion angle and 40 7/8″ center to center between spring pads. You can do this without installing the rear-end in the car. The angle can be adjusted later with spring wedges if needed/
Spotweld the pads to the rear end then remove rear and weld pads. Reinstall rear-end and tighten U bolts.
1. Shock bar goes inside the frame and behind the rear-end. Mark the location on the edge of the frame and remove the bar. Flip bar side to side (keeping front of bar to front) and clamp bar to bottom of frame using location marks previously set. Center side to side on the frame and drill 11/32″ holes through the frame using the mounting flanges as guides.
2. Reinstall bar on correct location inside frame. Insert 4 bottom bolts and tighten. Drill the top holes from inside the frame using mounting flange for guide. The bar is about 3/16″ narrower than the frame, for easier installation. Use 1/2″ flat washers, between each mounting flange and frame to make up for the distance. Install 2 top bolts and tighten.
3. Install wheels to put weight on the springs, then install the shocks and washers and tighten.
4. Move the original rubber stop 2 inches to the rear. Rear end is centered in the fender opening now. It wasn’t before.
Caution: Install rubber stops (not included in kit) between frame and rear-end to prevent shock bottoming.
WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including nickel and urethane, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.
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