Description

Our famous Bolt-On Pinto Mustang II Crossmember kit for 1948-1954 Chevy and GMC 1/2tn Pickup Trucks

Safety Thru Engineering.
Handmade in the USA.
Exclusive adjustment system.
Interlocking design.
Superior strength.
Easy and accurate installation.
Correct geometry.

This custom-made fully bolt-on crossmember kit is based on the Pinto-Mustang II independent front suspension system. Adding this kit to your ride eliminates bump steer and other unpleasant surprises resulting in a safe and enjoyable ride. The crossmember itself lowers your car about 2-4 inches when compared to stock, and with the adjustable upper coil spring pods there is about 2 1/2″ of additional adjustment possible to further fine tune your setup, providing the best method available to get the correct height geometry. Center support rods provide additional strength to the lower strut rod mount, and the interlocking tabs between upper pods and lower crossmember prevent movement. Order with ENGINE MOUNTING KIT CP-1160P and Chassis Engineering will install the frame adapter mounts onto the pods in our super-accurate fixtures. CP-1160P also includes the cushion set and engine mounts to install a SB Chevy engine

Safety thru Engineering: This fully bolt-on crossmember uses Pinto-Mustang II based suspension components. Using our 50+ years of expertise and experience, we have engineered this system to provide your classic ride with a suspension that is far superior to that of the original Mustang II in safety, strength, handling and performance.

Interlocking design: The main bolt-on crossmember cradles the frame for strength far superior to weld-on crossmembers. Chevy frames are too thin to weld on safely and very frequently crack near the weld.

Adjustment System: Our exclusive ride height adjustment system enables about 2 1/2″ of adjustable height at the coil spring pods, providing the best method for correct ride height geometry or to fine-tune your ride. Note: The adjustment system provides a quick and easy way to correct the driving geometry of your ride. The crossmember itself will lower your ride 2-4 inches from stock. It is important to keep the lower A-arms level. Our adjustment system allows you to set up the suspension correctly and then adjust as needed as the car settles.

Easy and accurate installation: Build using the highest quality standards, our independent front suspension is easy to install. The unique bolt-on system can be mounted safely and securely, and with the included instructions, installation of the crossmember is just a matter of following a couple of steps. The super-accurate fixtures we use when building your crossmember ensure a perfect fit.

Recommended parts: Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480TWP (power rack version) or IF-7480TWM (manual rack version), when combined with this crossmember, builds a complete front end. Kit includes new custom made upper and full lower control arms, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11″ rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks. The full lower control arms eliminate the need for support rods.

Complete hub-to-hub component package, IF-7480HHP (power rack version) or IF-7480HHM (manual rack version), when combined with this crossmember builds a complete front end. Kit includes new custom made upper and lower control arms, strut rods with bushings, spindles with nuts, caliper bracket kit, 11″ rotors, calipers with pads and pins, coil springs, manual rack and pinion, rack bushings, tie rod ends and shocks.

To fine-tune our ride height adjustment system easily, consider our custom IFS wrench. Set-up rods that temporarily replace the shocks and springs for an easy way to set the correct ride height during the build. For use with a small block engine, we recommend using 350 lb coil springs, but others are available as well.

Installation Instructions for IF-4854CPT Pinto/Mustang IFS for 1948-54 Chevy & GMC 1/2 Ton Pick up

Step 1. Remove original front suspension and rear spring brackets. Do not remove original crossmember as this is needed for radiator support. Straighten the frame edges and lips where the new crossmember and strut rod supports will sit. Be sure that the frame edges are 90 degrees to side of frame. Remove any rivet heads that interfere with fit. Grid the rivet heads flush with the frame.

Step 2. Trim the lower frame lip just behind the original crossmember, Make lip the same width (2″ to 2 1/8″) as straight part of frame. Do both sides. Lip must not interfere with fit betwreen new crossmember and coil spring pods. Check clearance when completing step 4.

Step 3. Clamp new crossmember to frame using measurements below: Steering mounts on crossmember go to the front. Measure from center of original front spring mounting holes to flat front of new crossmember. Center side to side and clamp to frame. Drill 4 mounting holes through bottom lip. Bolt crossmember in place.

Step 4. Place the coil spring pods over the frame and line them up with the lower crossmember. The pods will only fit one way, the taller side goes to the front. Check for clearances between the frame and the new parts and correct any interference problems found. At this point we recommend that you check for tire centering. Assemble the A-arms and spindle on one side (without a spring) and install a wheel. Visually check for centering. In the (unlikely) event of a miss, the crossmember can be moved a little. Wheel centering is normally not a problem, but it is always better to check.

Step 5. Clamp upper and lower pieces together and in place. Again, check the fit. When drilling new holes, do the vertical holes first. Insert the bolts and tighten. Now drill the holes in the sides (8 per side), insert the bolts and tighten them.   The crossmember, frame and pods should now be firmly attached to each other.

Step 6. Strut rod support brackets are next. Straighten the frame edges to 90 degrees. Put bracket in place around the frame and insert a bolt in the center brace to crossmember tube. Now fit the bracket to the frame and locate the spot where the bracket fits the frame the best. Do both sides, compare both measurements and make them the same. Brackets will fit the frame exactly only if the frame is straight and bottom lip is 90 degrees to the side.

Step 7. Drill underneath holes first, keeping brackets flush with the outside of the frame. Do outside holes then the inside holes, bolting them as you go. Use washers to fill any gaps on the inside holes only. The brackets are made with extra space to match the widest frames we have found. Don’t worry if the curve on the inside support doesn’t match the holes in the frame. This varies.

Step 8. With this kit you received two rack extensions. Be sure to install them to move the tie rod inner pivot outboard. You will run into steering problems if they are not used. This kit is 2″ wider than stock Pinto, and these spacers are critical for correct geometry. Be sure that these extensions are locked to the rack and to the tie rod both. We prefer a 1/8″ hole drilled half-way through the extension and the original shaft, then a roll-pin driven in for a lock, but whatever method you use, be sure the extension can not unscrew itself in use.   Note: The spacers with this kit are for the original standard steering rack and pinion. If you are using power steering, or have a TRW new replacement rack, then specify when ordering (note section during checkout) so we can include the correct spacers for your setup.

Step 9. Install components from 1974-1980 Pinto/1974-1978 Mustang II to complete the installation. Manual steering is recommended. Use Pinto strut rods, no Mustang strut rods. Use a new strut rod bushing set. See Ford Front-End manuals for installation instructions covering A-arm, strut rods, springs, shocks and lineup specs. Cut your coil to 12″ height. (Chassis Engineering coil springs are sized properly).Chassis Engineering has springs available in 25lb increments

Step 10. To adjust the height, first take off all the weight off of the springs. This means jacking up the front wheels of the ground and possibly unhooking the shocks. Caution: To prevent injury be sure to use jack stands to support the car anytime you may be working under it. Loosen 1/4″ locking set screw and turn height adjuster to new position. The adjustment can be used for different springs. For correct geometry, the lower A-arm should be parallel to the ground. Line up groove in threads and re-tighten locking set screw.

Step 11. The final step, after height adjustment is to have the front end aligned to Pinto specs.   once a “fresh” car with a new IFS gets some good road miles, it may become necessary to once again adjust the IFS spring pods due to normal settling of the new front coil springs. The lower control arms must maintain a “parallel to the ground” stance for good geometry and prolonged ball joint life. When making such an adjustment remember to loosen the set screw and add a little anti-seize compound before turning down the spring adjuster. Removing the shock and use of a spring compressor will also aid in this procedure. To aid in adjusting your IFS, we offer the IF-0000W adjustment wrench. Afterwards, reinstall the shock and tighten the set screw.

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including nickel and urethane, which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.  For more information go to www.P65Warnings.ca.gov.